With the restrained uniformity of its elegant residential boulevards punctuated by palaces, churches, and flamboyant public buildings, Paris can feel coolly intimidating to the visitor. Yet behind the pale limestone walls and beaux arts edifices untold riches abound. Color, texture and dynamism reward both those who trod the well-worn tourist paths as well those intrepid souls who scratch below the surface seeking out its hidden gems.  To follow are some of the highlights of our recent trip there.